@Alex You’re very welcome!
I’d love to help further, but without a photo I can’t accurately identify the issue based on the description only.
That’s a common confusion. So, well done on figuring out the difference between mold and mycelium bruises by comparing photo examples and using a Q-tip test 👍
I’m relieved to hear it’s just bruising in your case. Keep growing ;)
Links for more info on mycelium bruising:
1) Detailed write up here: https://shroomok.com/en/wiki/Mycelium_Bruises_or_Mold_Contamination
2) Photo gallery here: https://shroomok.com/gallery/bruising
thanks for the very quick reply! But it not mold its that blue tint from hard fanning(and me pushing on it). I relooked at your photos and realized what was actually happening. Also did the qtip test(i know its not ideal) just to make sure. Looks like its all good. Thanks
@Alex, harvest all healthy small and mature shrooms (with broken veils as well). There should be no visible signs of contamination on the mushrooms themselves. Then throw out the contaminated cake or bury it in a garden/forest.
You can share a photo on the forum https://shroomok.com/forum so I can check if it's really a contamination and how serious it is.
I’d like to add my personal favorite option for contaminated media: bury it outside in an area that gets full sun. And then see if anything happens, I’ve taken a jar meant for indoor grow get contaminated and then leaving it to nature outdoors in sunlight and in a compatible substrate has led to mushroom production in otherwise compromised cases.
I have 2 jmf all in one bags. They are very well incubated "5 weeks". They are crazy white and awesome fluffy top! Definitely ready to fruit...
this is a first for me. I hope i do it right. Im between 73- 77 degrees f.. any advice?
P.s. i ruined an all in one bag of golden teachers. Not enough patience.. the jedis i incubated right this time.
Apparently, you’re confusing bulk COLONIZATION with the FRUITING stage. Anyway, I’ll explain the possible issues for both cases.
1) Your bulk substrate won’t dry out during the colonization stage if it starts with the proper field capacity (ideal substrate moisture). Why?
Because the mushroom cake stays CLOSED during bulk colonization — typically for the first 5–10 days after spawning to bulk. There’s no airflow to cause evaporation.
A good way to test field capacity is by squeezing a handful of your substrate mix:
⛔️ If no water comes out when you squeeze, it’s too dry.
⛔️ If a light squeeze causes water to stream out, it’s too wet.
✅ You want to squeeze as hard as you can and see just a few steady drops — that’s perfect field capacity!
⸻
2) You don’t need a heating mat if your room stays at 19–21°C (66–70°F).
If you do need to use one, try to heat the air AROUND the cake rather than the cake itself. This helps reduce evaporation during the fruiting (pinning) period.
You can either:
– Place a heat mat beside the cake (without direct contact), or
– Put the cake on a wire rack and the mat underneath. This creates space between them → air heats evenly → evaporation is minimized
⸻
If your cake is fully colonized but the mycelium and top layer look dry, try soaking it in cold water for a few hours — as described in the current guide (just pour cold water and leave it to soak for a few hours).
P.S. It would be great if you could post a photo of your cake on the forum (https://shroomok.com/forum). That way I can take a proper look, because it’s hard to guess the real issue without seeing it
And a few questions from my side:
1. What's your room temperature?
2. What temperature is your heat mat set to?
3. What tek are you using — monotub, small cakes, or something else?
4. How much time has passed since spawning to bulk and since introducing fruiting conditions?
@JD Yes, it's perfect time for harvesting.
And making some spore swabs as well ;)
Bluey Vuitton mushrooms fruiting
Is this the most optimal time to harvest them?
Bluey Vuitton mushrooms fruiting
@Alex You’re very welcome!
I’d love to help further, but without a photo I can’t accurately identify the issue based on the description only.
That’s a common confusion. So, well done on figuring out the difference between mold and mycelium bruises by comparing photo examples and using a Q-tip test 👍
I’m relieved to hear it’s just bruising in your case. Keep growing ;)
Links for more info on mycelium bruising:
1) Detailed write up here: https://shroomok.com/en/wiki/Mycelium_Bruises_or_Mold_Contamination
2) Photo gallery here: https://shroomok.com/gallery/bruising
Blue-Green Mold Penicillium Contamination in Mushroom Cultivation
thanks for the very quick reply! But it not mold its that blue tint from hard fanning(and me pushing on it). I relooked at your photos and realized what was actually happening. Also did the qtip test(i know its not ideal) just to make sure. Looks like its all good. Thanks
Blue-Green Mold Penicillium Contamination in Mushroom Cultivation
@Nim YES! Totally safe to consume
Pins mutation coral like growth KSSS strain
@Kenneth around 8-10 weeks from inoculation to fruiting
Cubensis Makilla Gorilla magic mushrooms
@Alex, harvest all healthy small and mature shrooms (with broken veils as well). There should be no visible signs of contamination on the mushrooms themselves. Then throw out the contaminated cake or bury it in a garden/forest.
You can share a photo on the forum https://shroomok.com/forum so I can check if it's really a contamination and how serious it is.
Blue-Green Mold Penicillium Contamination in Mushroom Cultivation
Contamination during fruiting(veils breaking on some). Throw it all out or harvest whats there and throw it out the rest?
Blue-Green Mold Penicillium Contamination in Mushroom Cultivation
Hi I had a bad trip and carnt sheam to get outa it afterwards
How to deal with or prevent psychedelic bad trip
How long did it take to grow?
Cubensis Makilla Gorilla magic mushrooms
I’d like to add my personal favorite option for contaminated media: bury it outside in an area that gets full sun. And then see if anything happens, I’ve taken a jar meant for indoor grow get contaminated and then leaving it to nature outdoors in sunlight and in a compatible substrate has led to mushroom production in otherwise compromised cases.
Green mold contamination aka Trichoderma
What was it In the end?
I think this is mould on the Copelandia. Could someone help? #2
Thank you for the pictures of hillbilly fruiting very helpful had a bit of a mix up i was right!Thank you for sharing this is awesome
Penis Envy - 56 QT tub. One more day and it's harvest time
I’ve never tried it but …
Growing Roger Rabbit
Roger rabbit looks great never tried it!!!
Growing Roger Rabbit
Those kinda look like p. Antillarum...you sure they are p.cyans???
the biggest pan cyans panaeolus cyanescens I’ve ever seen in the wild
How does this even happen?!?!?? Cool asf
Mutation mycelium coral like growth in spawn jar
I have 2 jmf all in one bags. They are very well incubated "5 weeks". They are crazy white and awesome fluffy top! Definitely ready to fruit...
this is a first for me. I hope i do it right. Im between 73- 77 degrees f.. any advice?
P.s. i ruined an all in one bag of golden teachers. Not enough patience.. the jedis i incubated right this time.
JEDIs mushrooms - Jedi Mind F*ck - bag tek growing
Are they still safe to consume?
Pins mutation coral like growth KSSS strain
Hello @Dani from chile
Apparently, you’re confusing bulk COLONIZATION with the FRUITING stage. Anyway, I’ll explain the possible issues for both cases.
1) Your bulk substrate won’t dry out during the colonization stage if it starts with the proper field capacity (ideal substrate moisture). Why?
Because the mushroom cake stays CLOSED during bulk colonization — typically for the first 5–10 days after spawning to bulk. There’s no airflow to cause evaporation.
A good way to test field capacity is by squeezing a handful of your substrate mix:
⛔️ If no water comes out when you squeeze, it’s too dry.
⛔️ If a light squeeze causes water to stream out, it’s too wet.
✅ You want to squeeze as hard as you can and see just a few steady drops — that’s perfect field capacity!
⸻
2) You don’t need a heating mat if your room stays at 19–21°C (66–70°F).
If you do need to use one, try to heat the air AROUND the cake rather than the cake itself. This helps reduce evaporation during the fruiting (pinning) period.
You can either:
– Place a heat mat beside the cake (without direct contact), or
– Put the cake on a wire rack and the mat underneath. This creates space between them → air heats evenly → evaporation is minimized
⸻
If your cake is fully colonized but the mycelium and top layer look dry, try soaking it in cold water for a few hours — as described in the current guide (just pour cold water and leave it to soak for a few hours).
P.S. It would be great if you could post a photo of your cake on the forum (https://shroomok.com/forum). That way I can take a proper look, because it’s hard to guess the real issue without seeing it
And a few questions from my side:
1. What's your room temperature?
2. What temperature is your heat mat set to?
3. What tek are you using — monotub, small cakes, or something else?
4. How much time has passed since spawning to bulk and since introducing fruiting conditions?
Rehydration of psilocybe cakes